Without regular staining, an unfinished Adirondack chair (and, for that matter, all wood outdoor furniture) will soon turn gray and suffer from wood rot. While some people prefer the coastal look of an unfinished Adirondack chair, most homeowners would prefer to transform and protect their unfinished Adirondack chairs with a rich, weather-resistant stain. By following our staining tips below, you’ll defend any unfinished Adirondack chair against the natural elements.

Step 1 – Sand your way to smoothness.

Older, unfinished Adirondack chairs almost always have a few chips. Even a brand new, unfinished Adirondack chair can have a rough spot or two. Sandpaper is the solution for both situations. Start with 150-grit sandpaper and then switch to 220-grit sandpaper to create a velvet-smooth surface. Remove excess sawdust with a damp cloth.

Step 2: Prepare your security kit.

Wear gloves and protective glasses. Be sure to stain in a place with excellent airflow to protect your lungs. Lastly, because staining can be a tricky job, you may want to protect your workspace floor with a drop cloth.

Step 3 – Condition the wood.

Applying wood conditioner is a great way to prevent discoloration later. Simply apply a thin layer of conditioner and allow 15 minutes for it to dry before brushing out the stain.

Step 4 – Select a stain.

There are two main categories of wood stain: oil-based and water-based. (Some manufacturers create oil/water hybrids.) Dyes, pigments, and mineral spirits are combined to create oil-based stains. In general, oil-based stains need more drying time, since oil penetrates deeper into the wood pulp than water. This feature also results in a more uniform finish. If you plan to leave your Adirondack chairs unfinished in harsh weather, oil-based stains are the best option, as they are more durable than water-based stains. Those who live in places prone to moisture should be sure to select oil-based stains with mildew inhibitors.

One advantage of water-based stains is that they come in more colors than their oil-based cousins. People with lung conditions should also choose water-based dyes, as they don’t give off harmful fumes. For the same reason, water-based stains are the greener option. Water-based stains dry faster, are more flame resistant, and easier to clean with soap and water. Don’t worry about looking for a mold inhibitor; water-based stains naturally resist mildew.

Once you’ve selected a stain base, choose a shade that flatters your home’s exterior, as well as a level of opacity. Opaque stains offer more protection, but more translucent stains better show the natural beauty of the wood.

Step 5: Stain like a pro.

Distribute color in can with thorough agitation. You can apply the stain with a brush or rag. Some people prefer disposable foam brushes for staining unfinished chairs. Saturate every inch of the unfinished Adirondack chair with stain. Leave on stain to promote a darker shade or wipe off excess stain to achieve a lighter color. Promote penetration by rubbing in the same direction as the grain of the wood.

Give the stain a day or so to dry. Apply another coat of stain if the color doesn’t seem bright enough to you.

Step 6 – Apply a protective finish.

To make sure that unfinished Adirondack chairs last a long time, it’s important to apply a protective finish. Oil-based finishes are best for patio furniture. Some time-saving products contain stain and finish.